Yohji Yamamoto, fall 2018

Pushing Boundaries at Yohji Yamamoto

The invitation was giving nothing away, in true Yohji style. It was an orange cardboard envelope with an illustration of samurai fighting dragons and a single sheet of black paper in between. Black on the inside? Orange is the new black? Or, simply the king of black saying again, “I don’t bother you — don’t bother me.”

Read More

Jan 18, 2018 18:38:00
Louis Vuitton, fall 2018

Sentimental Send-Off at Louis Vuitton

The rumor that had been floating around was confirmed yesterday, ahead of the Louis Vuitton menswear show this morning: Kim Jones, Men’s Artistic Director, was leaving the label after seven successful years at the helm. Jones is famed for his clairvoyant ability to see the rise of streetwear to the realm of high fashion, a trait that he solidified last season with the too-good-to-be-true Supreme x Louis Vuitton collaboration, a hype-beast’s wet dream. It almost seems as if that collaboration would have been the perfect swan song, but it was clear today that he wasn't quite finished.

Read More

Jan 18, 2018 16:59:00
Walter Van Beirendonck, fall 2018

Tops and Bottoms and Pigs, Oh My!

For Fall, Walter Van Beirendonck again plunged the fetishistic, crypto-sexual realm of human behavior. The Belgian men's designer fitted holes at the nipples and crotch of assorted leather and latex jackets worn by waifish, Bowie-esque models. Elsewhere he spelled out sexual positions — i.e. Top, Bottom — and the word Pig, a label loaded with meaning among some circles. To be sure, this was an embrace of hard-core hedonism and erotic unorthodoxy in a neo-prudish age. 

Read More

Jan 17, 2018 17:54:00
Gucci Pre-Fall 2018

Thrills & Chills at Gucci

Che orrore! In tribute to Dario Argento, the Italian master of the horror genre, Gucci's Alessandro Michele visited some of the director's more memorable locations around Rome for his pre-fall 2018 collection.

Read More

Dec 13, 2017 15:14:00
Thom Browne, spring 2018

Magical Thinking at Thom Browne

For his Paris women's debut in the charmed Hotel de Ville, New York (mostly men's) designer Thom Browne wholeheartedly embraced the magical allure of the City of Light. Using little more than latex and lace, he undertook one of the more memorable collections in a while, Paris or anywhere.

Read More

Oct 03, 2017 14:36:00
Comme des Garçons spring 2018

Culture Clash: Comme des Garçons Spring 2018

In a mere 15 looks at the Russian Embassy in Paris, Comme des Garçons' Rei Kawakubo offered a glimpse of her limitless artistic universe — swirling prints collaged out of everything from the strange Mannerist portraits of 16th-century painter Giuseppe Arcimboldo to starry-eyed Japanese anime.

Read More

Sep 30, 2017 15:34:00
Rick Owens spring 2018

Water World: Rick Owens Spring 2018

Rick Owens has been marveling at the beauty of the imposing Palais de Tokyo in Paris for seasons now, haunting its underground space before "caressing its exterior," he said, with his astonishing men's show last June. Today, for the female version of that collection, also called Dirt, the audience sat around the same courtyard, with its central fountain emitting mist before erupting into geyser-like, sky-high spurts that formed a geometric, brutalist aquatic block, eventually spraying the models.

Read More

Sep 28, 2017 18:45:00
Maison Margiela spring 2018

Flights of Fancy: Maison Margiela Spring 2018

At Maison Margiela for spring, John Galliano — taken under the wing by one of fashion's most self-protective houses — took his cues from the rush, the security, the mundaneness of air travel.

Read More

Sep 27, 2017 11:05:00
Dior spring 2018

Seeking Answers: Dior Spring 2018

Dior started with a question — literally. "Why have there been no great women artists?" read the first look. Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri then traipsed through an assortment of midcentury French motifs: berets, worker denims, polka dots, mariniére stripes.

Read More

Sep 26, 2017 12:17:00

Sign up for our Email Newsletter,
“A Little Hint”