Printer Friendly at Yohji Yamamoto

A Yohji Yamamoto show comes with certain expectations and, in the same breath, certain unknowns. We know that he is the undisputed king of all things black, and that his garments are poetry in motion, but something he doesn’t usually get credit for is his astute eye, and hand, for print.

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Jun 21, 2019 12:15:00

Slim and Sculpted at Rick Owens

The invitation was a layered sculptural object signed Thomas Houseago, a Los Angeles-based artist who has his first retrospective in France at the moment in the Musée d’Art Moderne. The museum shares a common courtyard with the Palais de Tokyo, Owens’ venue of choice where we found ourselves today, face-to-face with a huge Houseago sculpture that occupied the space between the two museums, dominating the runway scenography. When life gives you lemons, make lemonade, right?

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Jun 20, 2019 19:27:00

Dark Forces at Comme des Garçons

Last season was brutal, referencing war and pain, so we were ready for an uncomfortable ride from the outset at Comme des Garçons. This season we were treated to a ritual, though I’m unsure as to what kind of spell Rei cast on us.

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Mar 03, 2019 17:41:00

New Harajuku at Junya Watanabe

Junya Watanabe opened with the raucous proto-propaganda of Grimes’ last single, ‘We Appreciate Power’, which she claimed was based on North Korean prop-pop group Moranbong, but in reality sounded like a teen-angst J-Pop song. It was perfect for the girl that was conjured up on the runway today. She was a love letter to old-school Harajuku, East-meets-West, doll-eyed, big-haired, and stomping in silver cowboy boots — truly eclectic style.

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Mar 02, 2019 14:01:00

Different Strokes at Yohji Yamamoto

Was it a coincidence that the inventor of silver gaffer tape, Ross Lowell, passed away seven days ago and Yamamoto had three strips of silver gaffer on his invitation, though none at all in the show? Probably. But then, we are always left trying to decode the workings of Yamamoto, who, in all fairness, simply makes some of the most painfully beautiful clothes on the market.

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Mar 01, 2019 19:04:00

Otherworldly at Rick Owens

Beams of light fell into sharp round white spots all over the runway, like giant polka dots or a constellation of bright stars. This lighting punctuated the collection, with the models dipping in and out of the spotlights, so to speak, while the music insisted, “I saw the moonlight on you, I didn’t want to wake you up.”

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Feb 28, 2019 18:50:00

Less Is Fleur at Dries Van Noten

The first few exits at Dries Van Noten served as a continuation from his fall men's collection, which took place in Paris less than six weeks ago. And, in fact, they included some of the same garments, in particular the grid puffer scarves and suiting — and why not? The system is moving so fast, and it is no secret that the Van Noten women’s customer is equally at home wearing his men’s as she is wearing his women’s (one need only look around the venue to see this), so it seemed fitting that the designer himself addressed this so directly, if indirectly.

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Feb 27, 2019 21:30:00

China Meets Peru at Kenzo

Entering the show space today could only be described as stepping through the looking glass into an underground dreamworld. The work of Peruvian artist Pablo Amaringo was used to great effect; his exotic imagined animals in rich hyper-saturated colors were the perfect backdrop to the clothes.

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Jan 20, 2019 13:57:00

Elder Respect at Junya Watanabe

There’s a bar in Shibuya called Grandfather’s that has been around for over 40 years, with a huge collection of vinyl. You can request music by writing a song name on a beer mat and handing it to the lady who controls the record player. Her knowledge of the records and where they are placed (imagine finding a single disc among 2000 records) is astonishing, and the music is non-stop, with track after track blending into one another.

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Jan 18, 2019 16:10:00

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